In the process of clothing production, the calculation of fabrics occupies a very important role, especially in the current situation of the cotton market, raw materials market is elusive. Reasonable calculation of the price of fabrics and control of material costs can make the entire production process of fabric companies smooth!
NO.1
Raw material costs
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Raw material cost = yarn quantity per meter × yarn price
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How to calculate the amount of yarn per meter? We divide all fabrics into non-elastic fabrics, weft fabrics, and four-sided fabrics to illustrate.
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1. No stretch fabric
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Most of the sample cloths or specifications given to us by our guests are finished products and they have been dyed. We need to restore the finished product specifications to the specifications of the grey fabrics .
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Gray fabric warp density = Finished warp density × Finished door width / Grey fabric door width
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Blank fabric weft density = finished product weft density × (1 - shrinkage )
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Note: The shrinkage rate, about 2-5 % of cotton , 3-8% of polyester-cotton , 8-15 % of polyester , the thinner the fabric is, the greater the shrinkage is, and the dyeing rate of the cylinder is longer than that of the long-vehicle. Larger, the smaller the shrinkage rate of finished fabrics, the greater the shrinkage rate of dyeing.
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Let us give an example. For example, the specification of a full-size cotton yarn card of conventional type is 21s × 16s/128 × 60 width of 63 inches. (Note that the yarn units in the specification are all counts in English, the density units are in inches, and the units in the width It is also inch. Some specifications are not of this unit and can be converted. For example , if the unit of chemical fiber is D , then the D number × British branch count = 5314. When the D number is 150 , the count is converted into inch number = 5314/150 = 35.4 (support)
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formula:
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The amount of yarn used for warp yarns = (very dense × door width × 0.65 ) / warp yarn count, ie 128 × 63 × 0.65/21 = 249.6 g
The amount of weft yarn used = (weft density × width × 0.65 ) / weft yarn count, ie 60 × 63 × 0.65/16 = 153.6 g
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In the formula: 0.65 is a coefficient, a very rough coefficient, there are many factors that affect the size of this coefficient, such as the rate of weaving, the elongation due to tension, loss of warp and so on.
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The amount of yarn used per meter of cloth is not equal to the weight per gram of finished fabric. There is also a coefficient, which is generally 0.88 . We calculated that the amount of yarn used is 249.6+153.6 = 403.2 g / m. The final product's grammage is probably 403.2 × 0.88 = 355 g / m, and the basic weight of the square meter is 355/1.5 ( width ) = 237 g/ m2. This factor varies greatly between different fabrics. When dyeing, there are many factors that affect this coefficient, such as shrinkage. Rate, alkali reduction, pre-treatment, etc., often rely on experience to summarize this coefficient.
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Assuming that the price of 21 cotton yarns is 20,000 yuan / ton = 0.02 yuan / gram, the cost of warp yarns is: 249.6 x 0.02 = 4.992 yuan / meter; similarly, assuming that the price of 16 cotton yarns is 18,000 yuan / ton, then weft The cost of the yarn used was 153.6 × 0.018 = 2.76 RMB / m. The raw material cost of this specification is 4.992 + 2.76 = 7.75 yuan / m.
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The price of raw materials can be found in the textile raw materials market of major textile websites, or you can call to ask the corresponding production plants. Some yarns are special, such as some slub yarns, special blended yarns, and special-purpose yarns. There are no stocks on the market and they need to be spun. The price is more expensive than regular yarns, and it also affects the cost and delivery time.
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2. Weft fabric
　　
Conventional weft fabrics have corresponding grey fabrics. For example: Cotton elastic poplin finished 40 × 40 + 40D / 133 × 72 57 / 58 inch The corresponding fabric is 96 × 72 upper machine door width 84 inch; Cotton elastic yarn Card finished 16 × 16 + 70 D / 120 × 40 48/50 inch corresponds to the fabric is 90 × 40 on the machine door width of 72 inches; cotton stretched tribute to the finished product 32 × 32 + 40 D/190 × 80 57/58 inch corresponding the fabric was 130 × 80 machine width 84 inches, other than a conventional weft stretch fabric width shrinkage rate is calculated according to this ratio, the width shrinkage is typically around 30%, the size reduction of the finished fabric into Specifications, and then according to the calculation formula of the amount of yarn with no elasticity of the fabric, calculate the amount of yarn used, the cost of raw materials.
　　
3. Four-faced fabric
　　
The method is the same, but also the fabric specifications of the finished product are restored to the upper machine specifications of the grey fabric, and then calculated according to the calculation method without elasticity.
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For example, four-sided cotton, the finished product specifications is 32s/2+70D × 32s/2+70d. The density is 100 × 60/ inch. The width of the door is 46 inches. The upper machine's specifications for converting into a grey fabric should be a density of 65 × 46 doors. The width of the web is 72 inches ( 35 % in weft shrinkage , 23 % in warp shrinkage , which is generally a long tie tie dye). The amount of yarn used can be calculated according to the previous formula: ( 65 + 46 ) x 72 × 0.65/16 = 325 g/m (the warp and weft yarns are the same and the weft and weft densities are added ) . That is, the yarn per meter is 325 g.
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Another example is Quandi's four - sided projectile . The common finished product specification 200d+40d × 200d+40 density is 118 × 80/ inch width is 57/58 , and the upper machine specification converted to grey fabric should be the weft and weft density is 82 × 56 (full-polyester) Four-sided bombs are generally dyed with overflow cylinders, and the warp and weft directions are about 30 %.) The upper machine door width is 84 inches, and the 200d conversion number is 5314/200=26.6 , which is calculated according to the amount of yarn used. Calculate the amount of yarn used: ( 82+56 ) x 84 x 0.65/26.6 = 283 g/m .
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The other T/R bombs and T/C bombs are all the same, but the warp and weft shrinkage is different. The specific shrinkage data must be consulted with relevant production experience.
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According to the amount of yarn used in the grey fabric, and considering factors such as the warp shrinkage and alkali reduction of the dyeing, the grammage of the finished product can be roughly calculated. The theoretically calculated grammage and the actual grammage are greatly different from each other. The error is about plus or minus 20 g / m, which can only be used as a reference.
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NO.2
Weaving costs
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Weaving costs are mainly related to weft density, followed by looms. For example, a general cotton air-jet looms machine usually says " a dime and a bobbin " : weft density divided by 2.54 and multiplied by 0.1 is the cost of weaving. For example, conventional cotton poplin 40 × 40 133 × 72/ Inches, weft density is 72 , the calculated weaving fee is 72/2.54 × 0.1 = 2.83 yuan / m. If it is a full-filament filament yarn, sizing is not necessary and the weaving fee can be calculated by 8 points. Some kinds of weaving are more difficult, the weaving fee is higher, the larger the weaving fee is, and the higher the weaving fee is, the higher the weaving machine is, the more expensive the weaving fee is, and the weaving fee for the shuttle weaving machine is the cheapest. Weaving looms with weaving machines and jacquard looms are the most expensive weaving machines.
　　
In the off-season, processing fees are cheaper than those in the peak season. The first half is the off-season and the second half is the peak season. Large factories, large-scale factories, and factory-regulated factories are guaranteed to be of better quality than small ones. The processing fees are also more expensive. It is necessary to select suitable factories according to the quality requirements of different guests.
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NO.3
Dyeing printing and finishing
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General cotton dyed with a long car, the whole process of active dyeing, spring and summer fabric dyeing fee at 1.5 yuan / meter, autumn and winter fabric dyeing fee at 2.8 yuan. Common Polyester Fabric dyed with a tub, spring and summer fabrics 1 yuan / m 2 yuan winter fabric. Ordinary printing according to a few sets of colors, the width of the width of the door, the processing fee from 2 yuan to 5 yuan.
　　
Embroidery processing fee is calculated based on the number of stitches per meter, which is generally 0.03 yuan / kilograms for ordinary small machines , big machine embroidery, sequin embroidery, towel embroidery, water soluble embroidery, chain embroidery, patch embroidery, multi-color embroidery, Processing fees have increased more or less.
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In short, the higher the quality requirements, the more expensive the corresponding processing fees. While calculating these processing fees, do not forget to take into account shrinkage, plus losses. For example, a four-ply cotton fabric with a warp shrinkage of 23 % and a dyeing fee of 4.5 yuan per meter. If the fabric is 15 yuan per meter, then the dyeing cost is: 15/(1 - 23 % ) + 4.5 = 23.98 yuan / m. , Together with a loss of 2% ( sewing head during production, etc. ) , 23.98 × 1.02 = 24.46 RMB / m.
　　
Other special fabrics, such as nylon fabrics, Tencel, Modal, etc., or special processing fees, such as Teflon three defense processing, embroidery processing fees, coating, compounding, etc., need to consult the corresponding production and processing companies , to find the exact cost.
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NO.4
other fee
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The cost of checking the rolling package is generally 0.1 yuan / meter, and the value added tax is 17 %. For example, if the profit is 1 yuan / meter, then you have to pay 0.17 yuan / meter. If you do not need an invoice, you can generally get 3 % cheaper . What needs to be explained is that the theoretical calculation here is only suitable for custom-made varieties and special specification fabrics. If it is a conventional product, the price above the market is generally cheaper than the theoretically calculated price. The actual price has market conditions and can be basically found in all major textile websites. Because the quantity is large, the processing fee of each link is cheap, and the loss is small. There are still some cheaper and cheaper to produce by cutting corners. For example, the weight is less than the weight, the warp and weft density is not enough, the yarn is fine, the dyeing quality is not good, the used yarn is poor, the strength is not good, and so on.
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