The stitching process of the sweater should be determined according to the stitching requirements and the stitching equipment. The stitching requirements are related to the raw materials, tissue structure, density of the garment, the style of the garment, and the color of the product, and the requirements of each part are different. Therefore, the sewing process is relatively long, and the equipment used is also relatively large, such as V-neck male. Cardigan generally has to go through the process: sleeve - hot collar - cutting - flat seam - chain seam - hand sewing - semi-finished product inspection - shrinking - cutting - flat seam - hot door - stroke, lock button hole - nail button - Removal of impurities - ironing - nail trademark - finished product inspection - packaging. The requirements of each process are described below in this process sequence. First, the mouth
The sleeve is carried out on the sweater stitching machine. The machine number of the stitching machine should match the machine number of the sweater knitting machine. Refer to the table below when selecting the machine number of the sewing machine. In the case of the sleeve, the lateral sleeve consumption is 2 to 3 courses, and the longitudinal sleeve consumption is 1 to 2 needles. When sewing the wool sweater, a 28×2 tex—31×2tex worsted yarn of the same color is used as the suture; In the case of products, the raw material of the lacquer is commonly used as a suture. Needle stitching and pinching are not allowed when the mouth is set. Here used to fit shoulders and sleeves, the seam seam elongation should be greater than 110%, and the shoulder seam seam elongation should be greater than 130%. The machine number of the joint machine is selected from the machine number (needle/2.54 cm)---the machine number (needle/2.54 cm)---the sewing machine is equipped with the needle number 4--------- ---------------8-------------------------New 8 6------ ------------------10------------------------New 8 7---- --------------------10~12--------------------New 8 9---- --------------------12~14--------------------New 8 11---- -------------------14~16--------------------New 8 12 or more---- ---------------18------------------------ New 8
Second, hot collar
Ironing refers to ironing the front neckline with an iron to prepare for the cutting at the neckline. Pay attention to the wet when using the electric iron. Third, cutting
Cutting refers to cutting the V-neck by the eye of the predecessor.
Fourth, flat seam
The flat seam is carried out on the sewing machine, and the fine needle product is generally 3 to 4 needles, and the thick needle product is 1 to 2 needles. The pure wool products are stitched with a 17x3 tex cotton thread or a 16x3 tex polyester thread, and the bottom thread is made of a 28x2 tex wool thread of the same color as the shirt body; The line is the same as the pure wool product, and the bottom line is made of lacquer raw materials. The flat seam stitch density is 11 to 14 needles per 2.54 cm. It is used for sewing collars and sills. The neckline curls from the front right collar and is stitched along the back collar to the left collar. The collar is quilted in the third stitch. The placket is placed on the front of the front body and aligned with the hem. , V neckline, back collar powder line, from the right armpit hem to the left hem hem, the door quilting half stitches, starting and ending the reinforcement back needle 2 cm.
Five, chain stitch
The chain seam is carried out on the trimming machine. The sewing cost is 0.5 to 0.7 cm, and the fine needle product is 3 to 4 needles, and the thick needle product is 2 to 3 needles. When suturing wool products, a 28x2 tex to 31x2 tex worsted wool yarn of the same color as the shirt body is used as the suture; when the chemical fiber products are stitched, the raw material of the lacquer is used as the suture. If you use it to sew a round neck men's pullover, the neckline should be up to 32 cm; the round neck women's pullover should be stitched, and the collar should be 30 cm; the round neck pullover should be 28 cm. The chain stitch density is generally 2.54 cm / 11 ~ 12 stitches, and the seam elongation should be greater than 130O%. It is used here to fit the seams of the big body and the bottom of the sleeve. It should be reinforced at the beginning and end by two centimeters.
Six, hand sewing
Hand stitching refers to manual stitching. This kind of stitching is more flexible, and the stitching changes greatly. It can stitch different parts of the requirements, but the work efficiency is low. It is used to complete some of the following work, sewing hem ribs, sleeve ribs; according to the process requirements, the bottom of the bag, the bag with the first open the mouth of the bag, from the end of the bag evenly sewed to the other end, the height of both ends is equal; The sills are narrow and narrow at the ends of the sills, and the edges are flush with the ribs; the stitches are stitched at the intersections of the seams and the bottom of the sleeves.
Seven, semi-finished product inspection
Mainly check the suture points so that they can be repaired in time to prevent the defects from leaking into the next process.
Eight, down
The chemical fiber products do not need this process. When the wool products are down, they should be processed according to the shrinking process. After the fluffing, the dewatering and drying should be carried out.
Nine, cropping
Cut the needle at the front of the needle, cut the ribbon (the length of the ribbon = the length of the collar is 3 cm deep and the ribbon is retracted), and draw the powder line according to the regulations. Pullover products do not require this process.
Ten, flat seam
This procedure is to put a ribbon on the sewing machine. When the ribbon is on the ribbon, leave 1 cm at each end. The ends of the ribbon are folded into the ribbed edge by 0.2 cm. The outer edge is retracted into the placket with a needle. The stitch is stitched in the first. In a needle pattern.
Eleven, hot door 襟
It is easy to draw the powder line and lock button hole.
Twelve, lock buttonhole
The number of button holes is drawn on the reverse side of the left door, and the first point is drawn at the depth of the collar. The bottom line of the hem is the lowest hole in the center, and the powder line is evenly divided in the middle. Use the buttonhole machine to lock the seam and open the buttonhole. When the stitch density is ribbon, it is about 17 needles per cm, and when there is no ribbon, it is about 12 stitches. The buttonhole size should be adjusted as required.
Thirteen, nail button
Use the hand-stitched button on the right placket, the button position should be correct, and the stitching should be firmly unified.
Fourteen, remove impurities
Removal of impurities refers to the elimination of grass clippings and miscellaneous hair from the wool product.
Fifteen, ironing
According to the specifications, set the ironing board, steaming and setting with iron or steaming machine to make the clothes surface flat.
Sixteen, nail trademark
According to the regulations, the trademark and size are added.
Seventeen, finished product inspection
Check the standard and verify the finished product specifications and grade.
Eighteen, packaging
Pack as required.
The above is the introduction of the V-neck men's cardigan sewing process and requirements, other products will not be described here, as required, and refer to the above.
Since the overlock is mainly used for cutting products and copying needle products, the above products are not involved. Here, the process requirements are explained. The overlocking is carried out on the overlock machine. The seam is consumed at about 0.7 cm, and the stitched thread is used. 17×3tex cotton thread or a 15×3tex polyester thread, 31×2tex wool thread for bottom thread products, and raw material line for chemical fiber products. Generally, the stitch density is 10 to 12 stitches per inch, and the seam elongation should be greater than 130%. At the end of the seam, a carriage return is required. The overlock should ensure that the edge of the fabric does not detach, and the undercut of the overlock should not be too high, soft, elastic, smooth and strong enough.
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